Sunday, January 29, 2012

Day 4 - Ruins, Caves, and Chocolate

Today, we left our wonderful hotel in Ticul (Posada Jardin) early to visit Uxmal, Kabah, Grutas de Loltun, Labna, and the Ecomuseo de Cacao.


The Mayan ruins at Uxmal are the most impressive we have seen yet. Although we couldn't climb the Pyramid of the Magician, I'm not sure I really wanted to.


The Governor's Palace had some of the most complete and impressive freezes and masks. These structures were free for us to climb around on. Uxmal is one of the most dramatic, famous, and popular sites for visitors in Yucatan. As you can see from the photos, we had this place nearly to ourselves.


Today was overcast and it began to rain toward the late afternoon. The weather is a little uncharacteristically wet. The rain has kept the heat down and it makes hiking to some of the more unexplored ruins in Uxmal very pleasant.


The Yucatan Penninsula was a hotbed for pirate activity from the time of the Spanish conquest on. On the northwest side of the peninsula is the Gulf of Mexico and the east side is the Carribean Sea. This carving below marks the cemetery courtyard at Uxmal. The skull and cross-bones remind me of pirates.


This is the ballcourt at Uxmal. How the game was played is well understood. The players, whom wear protective gear on the hips, elbows and wrists, strike a 12lb ball. The goals are about 0.5 meters, perpendicular to the ground, and raised about 4 meters off the ground. There is some controversy as to which team was sacrificed at the games conclusion. Scientists may not understand how to motivate an athlete, however I am fairly certain the "winners" weren't "playing their heart out" if that was the reward.


The "flying crane" just seemed like the right pose to strike at this moment.


Following our stop at Uxmal, we headed down the road to Kabah, the first of the smaller ruins on the Ruta Puuc route. If Uxmal was a metropolis, then the ruins of the Ruta Puuc were the suburbs. The above photo is of a bas relief panel depicting a battle scene in a unique building called Codz Poop, which was dedicated to the Mayan rain god Chaac and contains over 250 masks of Chaac.


This "diving god" frieze was found over one of the doorways on the Grand Palace at the Kabah ruins.


This is the arch at Kabah and was the beginning of the 30 kilometer Mayan road from Kabah to Uxmal.


The Grutas or Caves of Lolton ("stone flower in Mayan") are enormous limestone caverns. The explores areas are over 8 km and our tour only covered 2 km. The stalactites and tree roots that hang from the ceiling drip moisture. This was called "virgin water" and used in Mayan ceremonies. Our guide was great; he explained the rituals, the need to watch were we were going, and also most importantly not to panic if we lost power. And guess what? 3/4 through and 150 meters down, we lost power. Not to worry, we could see a shaft of light up ahead, and our guide had a giant flashlight to finish the tour with.


Following our hour-long tour of Grutas de Loltun, we headed back down the Ruta Puuc to the Labna ruins. A smallish but very impressive site, the Palace at Labna had some of the most ornate latticework we have seen yet. In the photo below, a crocodile frieze is visible on the corner of the foremost portion of the Palace. The mouth of the crocodile is open and the body itself climbs upward behind it.


When the sun comes out following a downpour, then so do the lizards. Although they are not known to bite humans, this guy still will give you pause. Nearly a meter long, these males will hiss and bob their head in a impressive display that will make you look for another route through the ruins.


It's been a long day. We are both tired. Well, perhaps one more stop at the Ecomuseo de Cacao. Great idea. Have you ever wondered how they make chocolate? They showed us every step, and we got to taste every step! There is no comparison between real cocoa and the mass produced chocolate. Cocoa beans were revered by the Mayans, they were used in cereomonies, and for currency. Only the wealthy enjoyed this treat. In the first treaty the Spanish entered into with the Mayans, a value for trading purposes was established at 140 cocoa beans to 1 spanish gold realle. Later the value increased to 80 cocoa beans to 1 realle.

Saturday, January 28, 2012

Day 3 - Acanceh, Cenotes de Cuzama, and Mayapan

We left Merida early this morning and headed south to Acanceh, a small Mayan ruin that is surrounded by and part of the modern town of Acanceh. Here Josh and I are standing atop the Pyramid, with the main church of Acanceh in the background. Our guide unlocked the fence surrounding the Pyramid (yes, something this large had a fence around it) and was kind enough to show us around.


From the top of the Pyramid, we could see into the neighbors' backyards. A second pyramid in the process of excavation is also seen here.


The top of the Pyramid in Acanceh has a roof built over the top because of an ongoing excavation of these large stucco masks. The previous palapa (thatch) roof was struck by lightening in a hurricane a couple of years ago and burned down.


After Acanceh, we drove to the small village of Chunkanan for a tour of the "Cenotes of Cuzama." To get to the cenotes, the local residents of Chunkanan have preserved and maintained a network of narrow-gage railway lines, which were once used to transport the annual henequen (a rope-like textile) harvest.


The local henequin plantations are no longer in use but the old rail lines and rail trolleys are used today to transport tourists to three cenotes. We traveled approximately five miles roundtrip on these rail trolleys today.


On our way back from the last cenote on the line, we encountered other rail trolleys inbound to the cenotes. The inbound rail trolleys had right-of-way and our conductor kindly asked us to exit the trolley so he could remove the trolley from the rail line. (The horse took this opportunity to find lunch). Once the inbound trolley had passed, our conductor pushed the rail trolley back on the rail line, reattached the horse, and we were off again!!


The cenotes themselves were breathtaking - all three were accessed by either a wooden stairway or ladder for an approximate decline in 50 feet from surface to cenote.


I took this photo of Josh halfway down the drop into the cenote.


Tree roots always seem to find their way through the ceiling of the cave and into the freshwater of the cenote.


Following our rail trip to the Cenotes of Cuzama, we lunched on a delicious lunch of cochinita pibil (marinated Mayan pork baked in banana leaves) and chile rellenos in Chunkanan. Next stop: Mayapan!! This small compact ruin (pictured above) was practically empty of other tourists and provided Josh and I with a great perspective of our surroundings.


Mayapan is one of the few Mayan ruins left where tourists can still explore every ruin on site. The above water-themed fresco was found on the top of the Templo del Pescador, or Temple of the Fisherman. There is a fish visible in the bottom-left corner of the photograph.


This stucco of the Mayan rain god Chaac (note the long nose symbolizing Chaac, a common theme in Mayan ruins) was found at the Observatory at Mayapan.

Between our stops in Acanceh, the Cenotes of Cuzama, and Mayapan, we could not have asked for a better way to spend a day. We shall see what tomorrow brings!

Friday, January 27, 2012

Maya Adventure, Destination Merida

Day 2, Mayan ruins at Dzibilchaltun ("Place of Inscribed Flat Stones")
1500 BC to Spanish conquest 1500 AD


*Temple of the Seven Dolls (Templo de las Siete Munecas) (background)*
*Structure 12 with Monolith (foreground)*
This is our first taste of the ruins here on the Yucatan Pennisula. Spectacular! The site is a work in progress with ongoing restoration of many structures spread over 100's of acres. The precision of the placement for the Temple of the Seven Dolls is interesting. The three openings in the top of the structure precisely line up the the solstices and equinoxes at sunrise when viewed from the east.


*Temple of the Seven Dolls (Templo de las Siete Munecas)*
This temple is named for the seven dolls that were found in the first excavation in 1945, and are now displayed at the onsite museum.


*Structure #44*
The interior of this massive structure has been excavated. However due to clumsy tourists, it is no longer open to the public. Couldn't even bribe our way in... Behind this, stretching into the forest are numerous ancient foundations, which probably composed the living quarters of the local Mayan "elite".


*Structure #39*
This unique, flat-topped pyramid is still being restored but we were able to climb to the top from the east side.

All these Dzibilchtaltun ruins were most likely used for spiritual observances. All the buildings were built out of quarried limestone. Major building projects were undertaken when the Mayan calender began a new cycle (or every 52 years). There are 100's of structures in this group. Surrounding all these building, and stretching into the impenetrable forest, are vast mounds of rubble not yet excavated or studied.


*Cenote Xcalah ("old people" in Mayan)*
Cenotes were thought to be gateways to the Mayan underworld and are formed as water wears away and dissolves the surrounding limestone. Much of the Yucatan is at or near sea level, and covered with a very thin layer of topsoil over limestone. The water that is collected in these pools was essential to Mayan civilization since there are no other major lakes or rivers inland. The end that Emily dangles her feet is over 150ft. deep and has been explored nearly 1 mile horizontally for Mayan artifacts. Many of these cenotes are linked together and compose a vast underground freshwater spring system.


The cenote fish are not shy about "tasting" whatever is dangled in the water. It was funny to listen to our guide, whom otherwise spoke very good English, try to pronounce "exfoliate".


Even though it is the dry season here in the Yucatan peninsula, recent storms have caused blooms of beautiful tropical foliage all over the Dzibilchaltun ruins.


*Museo Regional de Anthropoligia "Palacio Canton"*
The palace of ex-governor General Francisco Canton Rosado in Merida has been transformed into an exceptional display for a vast collection of Mayan artifacts in this wonderful regional museum.


This statue of Chaac, the Mayan rain god, came from the nearby Chichen Itza ruins. Many of the more delicate Mayan artifacts from around the Yucatan peninsula are housed in this museum in an attempt to preserve them indefinitely.

Wednesday, December 28, 2011

Winter home in San Blas, Mexico

So after spending last winter moving Estrella around quite a bit here in Mexico, Josh and I decided to spend this winter exploring our favorite places from last season, but at a MUCH slower pace. We left La Cruz in early November and ended up here in San Blas, a little town north of La Cruz and south of Mazatlan.


Needless to say, we have spend the past month or so in San Blas finding no shortage of ways to entertain ourselves. First off, we started brewing our own liquor again. But this time around, local pub owner Billy Bob allowed us the use of his galley and equipment in order to produce larger quantities of our liquor.


Josh has thus far run his homemade still three times at Billy Bob's pub. This particular set-up produced a liquor closest in taste to potato vodka.


The other two distillations produced liquor close to gin. The most recent batch Josh flavored with cinnamon sticks for proper holiday liquor.


Other daily activities include riding our bicycles to the beach. The local horses also provide a viable means of transportation in San Blas and oddly enough, produce the greatest number of traffic jams in town.


A few days ago we hitched a ride in our friends' (Charles and Lori's) VW bug and went driving on the beach. Rocky outcroppings interrupt the otherwise sandy beach and frequently we could see the remains of structures destroyed during past hurricanes. I should note the (mostly intact) house we are standing next to belongs to another friend here.


The columned building on the left is the San Blas cultural center, which was the original customs house when San Blas was one of the ports of the Camino Real. The Camino Real was the Spanish "royal road" between Veracruz, Mexico City, and San Blas. The Spanish empire used the road to transport cargo to San Blas and then onto the Baja California missions, western North America, and the Spanish colony in the Philippines via galleon. Consequently, extensive galleon building took place in San Blas.


The marina here in San Blas is one of our favorite in Mexico. Behind Estrella is a large estuary that continues inland for another fifteen miles. The bird viewing from the marina is fantastic!


Our Christmas tree for 2011. The giant Pacifico bottle was purchased at Carnaval in La Paz in 2008 and had proven to be the perfect vessel for flowers.


The marina also has a lovely pool which is rarely used, except when Josh and I decide to cool off and read there in the afternoon.


We have also traveled inland to Tepic, the capital of the state of Nayarit. A two hour bus ride from San Blas, Tepic sits in the sierras and is full of museums and churches of historical significance.


Over the past five years, Tepic underwent a city-wide beautification project. New parks have sprung up and I found myself on an elliptical machine near the main river, (which is dry at this time of year).

Friday, October 21, 2011

Regresamos a Mexico!

Buenas dias! We are back in Mexico for another season of winter cruising on S/V Estrella.


S/V Estrella lived at Marina de La Cruz, (just outside of Puerto Vallarta on Bandaras Bay), for the summer while we were in Alaska working on M/V Ursa Major. The above photo is of our typical sunset here in La Cruz.


A couple of weeks ago, supposed-Hurricane Jova made an appearance in Bandaras Bay. We took this photo the day of the storm - note the completely calm seas behind us.


In preparation for supposed-Hurricane Jova, we took the head sails off S/V Estrella, tied down everything that could fly off, and added extra dock lines.


Most of the boats in the marina had the same idea as us for supposed-Hurricane Jova, but in the end, we received 20 minutes of 20 knot wind and some rain.


Time was not to be wasted just on hurricane-preparedness. Beer needed to be consumed regardless of the weather.


We did enjoy the company of these mystery songbirds on our docklines during supposed-Hurricane Jova. They didn't seem too worried about the weather either.

Monday, July 4, 2011

Cruisin' aboard Ursa Major


Josh and I in Auke Bay, Alaska courtesy of Ruth and Bill Donovan. Ruth and Bill were aboard M/V Ursa Major for our trip from Seattle to Juneau in May. They are wonderful bloggers so check out the following link to their blog for many great stories and photos from our trip:

http://ruthandbilladventures.blogspot.com/2011/07/trip-to-alaska-via-inside-passage.html